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Large-scale laboratory study of breaking wave hydrodynamics over a fixed bar

Autor
Van Der A, D.; Van der Zanden, J.; O'Donoghue, T.; Hurther, D.; Caceres, I.; McLelland, S.; Ribberink, J.
Tipus d'activitat
Article en revista
Revista
Journal of geophysical research-oceans
Data de publicació
2017-04-01
Volum
122
Número
4
Pàgina inicial
3287
Pàgina final
3310
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1002/2016JC012072 Obrir en finestra nova
Repositori
http://hdl.handle.net/2117/112454 Obrir en finestra nova
URL
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/2016JC012072/full Obrir en finestra nova
Resum
A large-scale wave flume experiment has been carried out involving a T¿=¿4 s regular wave with H¿=¿0.85 m wave height plunging over a fixed barred beach profile. Velocity profiles were measured at 12 locations along the breaker bar using LDA and ADV. A strong undertow is generated reaching magnitudes of 0.8 m/s on the shoreward side of the breaker bar. A circulation pattern occurs between the breaking area and the inner surf zone. Time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) is largest in th...
Citació
Van Der A, D., Van der Zanden, J., O'Donoghue, T., Hurther, D., Caceres, I., McLelland, S., Ribberink, J. Large-scale laboratory study of breaking wave hydrodynamics over a fixed bar. "Journal of geophysical research-oceans", 1 Abril 2017, vol. 122, núm. 4, p. 3287-3310.
Paraules clau
breaking wave, fixed breaker bar, plunging wave, turbulence, wave flume experiment
Grup de recerca
LIM/UPC - Laboratori d'Enginyeria Marítima

Participants

  • Van Der A, Dominic  (autor)
  • Van der Zanden, Joep  (autor)
  • O'Donoghue, Tom  (autor)
  • Hurther, David  (autor)
  • Caceres Rabionet, Ivan  (autor)
  • McLelland, Stuart J.  (autor)
  • Ribberink, Jan  (autor)