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Shoreline instability due to very oblique wave incidence: some remarks on the physics

Autor
Falques, A.; Calvete, D.; Ribas, F.
Tipus d'activitat
Article en revista
Revista
Journal of coastal research
Data de publicació
2011-03
Volum
27
Número
2
Pàgina inicial
291
Pàgina final
295
DOI
https://doi.org/10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-09-00095.1 Obrir en finestra nova
Repositori
http://hdl.handle.net/2117/12458 Obrir en finestra nova
Resum
Previous research has shown that a very oblique wave incidence on a coast may render a rectilinear shoreline unstable. Here, we present some further insight into the physics of such instability. The obliqueness of wave incidence has two effects on the alongshore drift: (i) a direct effect on the relative angle between the wave fronts and the shoreline, and (ii) an indirect effect on the breakers height via the wave energy spreading as the waves refract when they approach the shore. The direct ef...
Citació
Falqués, A.; Calvete, D.; Ribas, F. Shoreline instability due to very oblique wave incidence: some remarks on the physics. "Journal of coastal research", Març 2011, vol. 27, núm. 2, p. 291-295.
Grup de recerca
DF - Dinàmica de Fluids: formació d'estructures i aplicacions geofísiques

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