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Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers

Autor
Ribas, F.; de Swart, H.E.; Calvete, D.; Falques, A.
Tipus d'activitat
Article en revista
Revista
Journal of marine systems
Data de publicació
2011-10
Volum
88
Número
1
Pàgina inicial
90
Pàgina final
101
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2011.02.016 Obrir en finestra nova
Repositori
http://hdl.handle.net/2117/26372 Obrir en finestra nova
Resum
A morphodynamic model has been extended to gain more fundamental knowledge about the formation of nearshore sand bars. The model describes feedbacks between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, so that self-organized processes can develop. Offshore wave, wind and tide conditions and the bathymetry measured at Egmond site (the Netherlands) are firstly applied to compute the longshore current and wave height profiles.
Citació
Ribas, F. [et al.]. Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers. "Journal of marine systems", Octubre 2011, vol. 88, núm. 1, p. 90-101.
Paraules clau
Coastal Zone, Nearshore Bars, Longshore Currents, Waves On Beaches, Rollers, Longshore Sediment Transport
Grup de recerca
DF - Dinàmica de Fluids: formació d'estructures i aplicacions geofísiques

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