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Probabilistic land-sea uses assessment based on wave action and vulnerability due to erosion/flooding

Total activity: 17
Type of activity
Competitive project
Funding entity
Funding entity code
221.430,00 €
Start date
End date
alarms, alertas, arena, clima, climate, coastal areas, distribuciones de extremos, extreme distribution, oleaje, planificación, planning, riesgo, risk, sand, sediment transport, storm events, tormentas, transporte de sedimentos, waves, zona costera
Coastal population and associated uses are increasing at higher rates that for other land areas. This leads to increasing levels of pressures for a scarce
territory that is decreasing due to erosion, resulting in progressively higher levels of conflict. This situation is particularly acute for urban, heavily
anthropogenic beaches where the amount of sediment is more limited and the social demand (even control) is high. The situation becomes critical when
a wave storm acts on such beach systems and the only response is an a posteriori nourishment or reinforcement of the coastal works which, as a
reactive solution, is expensive and not well received by local population and stakeholders.
To address this problem using the recent advances in hydro-morphodynamic models and some novel ideas about emerged-submerged beach
connections plus the role there played by temporary coastal defences, we have put together the research proposal PLAN-WAVE. The project has three
main aims:
i) Improving local scale wave predictions and in particular the evaluation of extremes using an advanced high resolution sequence of models, which will
be also improved as part of our research. PLAN-WAVE will be based on a coupled and nested suite of hydrodynamic models, incorporating new physics
(near shore detailed processes such as the wave coupling with near-shore circulation) and an unstructured mesh that is able to solve coastal
irregularities (such as capes or harbour breakwaters that produce diffraction) and that allows a more efficient solution of the discretized equations.
ii) Predicting erosion and flooding with a dynamic model that is driven by the operational forecasting of wave and current conditions. The morphodynamic
simulations will be based on a locally adjusted state of the art code that will be here upgraded by adding a suitable parameterization of swash zone
fluxes, based on the largest available data set for this swash zone obtained in large scale flume experiments (not yet used for this purpose). This will
allow an improvement of the morphodynamic code with an unprecedented level of accuracy in the calibration, which will explicitly address the emergedsubmerged
beach connection via the swash zone.
The validation of the hydro-morphodynamic code with the field observations from the PLAN-WAVE intensive campaign and for the selected Target
Operational Period will allow to further refine the modelling tools and to derive new knowledge about the underlying physics. It will also serve to show to
the interested stakeholders the capabilities or present forecasting tools at local scales (my beach, my harbour).
iii) Developing a group of indicators (summarizing the simulated erosion and flooding) that allow establishing a set of quantitative criteria for the
deployment of a temporary coastal protection (Quick Intervention Measures) using inflatable geo-textile bags. This will serve to prepare a set of risk
alarms and their implementation for a proactive intervention protocol that enhances coastal safety based on advanced forecasting of storm impacts and a
pre-designed set of geo-textile bags to be deployed prior to the storm wave impact. The potential of such proactive coastal zone defence, considered as
part of green coastal engineering solutions, will be transferred to the corresponding Administrations and other public/private parties that have already
shown their interest to be part of the project Transfer Board.
Adm. Estat
Plan Estatal de Investigación Científica y Técnica y de Innovación 2013-2016
Call year
Funcding program
Programa Estatal de I+D+i Orientada a los Retos de la Sociedad
Funding call
Retos de Investigación: Proyectos de I+D+i
Grant institution
Gobierno De España. Ministerio De Economía Y Competitividad, Mineco


Scientific and technological production

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